Visiting Piemonte in Autumn is a wonderful thing for wine and food enthusiasts and was for me at last October. The reasons are quite simple;
Impressive views of rolling hills painted to all colors of Autumn, winery visit that can give opportunity to meet their winemakers in cosy environment, white truffle festival during October and November, relatively lower priced fine wines compare with Bordeaux and Burgundy’s and all combined with superb local food.
WINERIES WORTH TO VISIT
We visited to several wineries in Barolo and Barbaresco and among them these are my favorites;
Marchesi di Gresy
One of the famous Barbaresco producer with consistent quality, that their cellar door is always busy at weekends and located in beautiful villa surrounded with vineyards. There is an attentive service that provides good selection of their wines and winery tour but the appointment has to be taken in advance.
This is family owned winery provides informative winery tour and tasting. We were lucky to meet with the wine-maker.
They produce one of the most elegant wines of La Morra and very well-priced.
They have a spaceship-like cellar-door and a bit touristically approach for wine enthusiasts but it’s worth to visit for their wines and the view.
For more information about winery visits, please click here .
WHITE TRUFFLE MARKET
White Truffle Market is one of the most interesting markets for food lovers to buy them at lower prices and learn how to chose them.
Tips for choosing them;
– Check by hand and don’t buy if it is soft, because truffle is basically a kind of mushroom and should be consumed in a week after hunting, soft texture indicates it gets older and already lost some of its aromas.
– Smell and chose intensely aromatic one.
– Don’t buy bigger one if it will be consumed at home, because small quantities are enough to give powerful aromas to dishes. Bigger ones are more expensive and not possible to consume in short period time.
When you speak with sellers you may get more tips about it. When we bought ours, we took Tajarin plates from the food stand in the Market and they made our truffle sliced on them and we consumed some of them immediately with a glass of Roero Arneis.
And other mushrooms, candied truffles, truffle pastes, local cheeses and fresh pastas can be found there.
For good food, there are infinite options as in quantity and style. Our favorites were;
La Libera is young face of Piemonte food. The food is Piemontese with contemporary touch and prepared from local high quality ingredients, served in sleek ambiance very attentively.
For more information, please click here .
It’s located in Verduno Town that is 20km far from Alba Town. They have traditional specialities mostly with truffles and it was the best dinner in Piemonte for me.
Some of the dishes we had were:
Villa D’Amelie is a Small Luxury Hotel in Benevello. It’s a nice building with wonderful view. The Restaurant has one Michlen star. Delicious food, smooth service, well-priced extensive wine list. It would be chosen for special events for dining and staying.
Dining at Enoclub in Alba Town is a good option. We went there without reservation for lunch and there was long queue for tables in front of the door but it’s also possible to eat at the bar that we did. It’s fun to see how they prepare or slice the Parma Ham in front of your plate.
Local specialty Carne Cruda is not to be missed, especially if you like Beef Tartar. Carne Cruda can be found almost in all menus.
There are plenty of options; agroturismo, historical villas, hotels…
But we stayed in a self-catering room in Alba Town considering cool weather conditions on October; Casa Bona. It’s budget and gives opportunity to cook with local ingredients bought from Truffle Market as well.
Fine wine, good food, the Nature and wonderful people; Piemonte !!!
It’s our first morning in Piemonte, cool and rainy one. Lots to do, we would like to enjoy picturesque views of the nature and Medieval villages as well as seasonal local foods ( especially after we had a wonderful dinner at La Libera yesterday evening, we are more curious about food! ) and the wines of the region. But today, our priority is wine! cause most of the wineries are closed on weekends. Our appointments are done in advance.
The first one is Paolo Scavino in Castiglione Falletto, 20 min. to Alba. Although our car navigator fails to show there – as it happens often at rural areas – we could arrived the winery on time by helping our mobile phone maps and luck.
First we take winery tour that;
French Oak barrels for ageing and also malolactic fermentation takes place in them. Ageing takes 24 months; 12 months in barrels and additional 12 months in casks. As the quality of wine in all individual barrels are observed during the ageing period, so lesser qualities can be eliminated.
In vineyard they apply organic and biodynamic applications including harvesting their grapes according to the moon calendar.
It’s a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Fruity and refreshing style. Intense aromas of apricot and peach with good acidity.
Deep crimson. Cherry pie and cheesy notes. Medium tannin and acidity. Long.
It’s a blend of 3 regions; Barolo, Castiglione Di Falleto and La Morra. After tasting Barbera, it’s distinctively deep and complex. Aromas of red berries, licorice, chocolate with delicate floral notes.
From Roddi. Brown sugar, cherry and floral notes. Long mineral and medicinal ending.
From Verduno. More delicate. Floral with white chocolate notes.
From Castiglione Falleto. Intenser than Monvigliero on the nose. Complex aromas of licorice, brown sugar, chocolate with earthy and fleshy edges.
At the end of the tasting we are lucky enough to meet with Mr. Enrico Scavino, who is the owner and wine maker of Scavino wines. Scavino wines offer a knowledgable and sincere tasting atmosphere.
Now we are on the way of La Morra, 10 min. to Scavino Wines. Before Osteria Veglia, the view is wonderful, so taking some photos;
We are at La Morra town. Unfortunately the view is not clear at the Piazzo Castello because of heavy rain. So we choose one of the wine bars for lunch, Viniera S.Giorgio on Via Umberto.
Our second tasting appointment will be at Fratelli Revello at 2pm. Revellos produce La Morra wines that are elegant and perfumed style of fine Barolo. The style is result of its Calcareous-Marl soil type that is same in Barolo Docg as well, whereas less fertile and Sand-Limestone soil combination of Castiglione Falletto Docg, Mondorte d’Alba Docg and Seralunga d’Alba Docg produce beefier, more tannic and structured wines that are less approachable when young but have more aging capacity.
1999 Fratelli Revello Barolo was one of my random purchase at the free-shop of Ataturk Airport in Istanbul and was one of the best wines I’ve ever had up to then. So we are at their panoramic wine tasting room.
Long with red fruit aromas and floral notes.
Sweeter on the nose. Carnation flavours are already perceivable.
Elegant with aromas of sweet red fruits, leather and Autumnal notes.
More powerful expression of Barolo with coffee and meaty aromas. 2007 is Intenser and sweeter on the nose with smokey fruits. 2006 is less approachable and has aromas of sage, cherry and strawberry.
Intence and delicate fruit is very well integrated with high tannin and acidity. Perfumed and already focused.
Gattera is the only one aged in Slovenian oak and represents more traditional ageing approach. The others are more modernists and aged in French oak barrrels for 24 months.
We are leaving there with pleasure of tasting their fine wines.
It’s time to turn back to Alba for having some rest and be ready for having a local food experience at Il Falstaff !
We arrived to Alba at the late afternoon and had some rest at our hotel. Before dinner, we had a short walk to Piazza Duomo to discover medieval old town of Alba.
Although there are hundreds of eateries in Piemonte region, we preferred to stay in Alba for our first dinner, cause the day after would be busy with winery visits! Anyway we were at Ristorante La Libera , is located in one of the narrow and tranquil street of Alba.
The menu is in Italian! But no problem, our waiter speaks English fluently and after her translation, we chose our meals. For the wine, the sommelier recommended us a white wine for our fist courses and she added that if we like the wine, we could continue with this bottle for the main courses as well ( so, we did !).
The wine was 2008 La Rocca Bianco, a surprisingly good white in very famous red wine region. The grape is Gavi’ s Cortese but the wine is made of Barbaresco grapes. Compare with more aromatic Gavi, the style of the wine is near to a good white Burgundy. On the nose complex aromas of daisy, lime, honey, toasted bread and butter are detectable and on the palate aromas are more intense, savory and long. It’s not heavy, well balanced and has smooth texture.
Our first courses were quite original and prepared by seasonal ingredients. And we were lucky to be Piemonte on October, it’s white truffle season.
Unusual combination of Porcini and Sephia and more traditional Gnocchi with white truffles dishes were our favorites.
Our main courses were:
– Veal with caper sauce
Veal was Juicy and delicious.
– Yellowtail fillet
Crunchy surfaced Yellowtail was very well prepared.
– Rabbit dumping with Sweetbread
Sweetbread was creamy but fried Rabbit was overcooked.
And Tiramisu was stunning.
The bill was fair for the attentive service, delicious food and wonderful wine.
It was good beginning to our holiday!
After tasting wonderful sherries, it’s time to enjoy them with friends. Especially for La Bota De Manzanilla 32, I have a good pairing idea; “Clam Soup with Miso and Tofu” . The recipe from my favorite cookbook; “The Family Meal” prepared by celebrated chef Ferran Adria.
Why this pairing? Because, I have taste this kind of pairing at Serendipity Restaurant in Wilderness, South Africa and we amazed of “Miso Soup and Fino Sherry” pairing in their tasting menu. The difference between two soup will be additional clams which are the traditional pair for Manzanilla and will have more weight with creamy Tofu. And Clam Soup is enough original and easy to prepare for a weekend dinner which will be prepared together with friends at home, a PARTY!
Yes we began! We have all we need, not really! except from Dashi powder, cause I couldn’t find it yet;
Over all the pairing is like sea breeze. Weights and aromas of Soup and Sherry are matching. My tasting note for La Bota De Manzanilla 32 can be found in other post.
Have a good weekend, Cheers!!!
I’ ve been quite excited to taste the Sherries I bought from Vila Viniteca during my last trip to Barcelona. Especially, dry or off-dry Sherries, which are my favorites, such as Manzanilla, Fino, Amontilado and Oloroso. They amazes me with their very different aromas from all other red and white wines and their unique production method; Solera*.
As Sherries are underappreciated and misunderstood by wine drinkers for years 😦
– some can call them as “Old Ladies’s drink! ” , never mind 🙂
maybe so that their prices are still reachable in the premium level !
And before dinner, I would like to taste three different styles of sherry; Manzanilla ( which will be consumed at the dinner and I will try to pair it attentively, I hope! ), Amontillado and Oloroso.
EQUIPO NAVAZOS La Bota De Manzanilla 32
It has deep gold color with lemon rim. Nose is quite complex, fruity aromas; lemon and red apple peel, nutty; roasted nuts and refreshing edges; moss and mineral tones. On the palate bone-dry, beginning with lemon peel and salty-minerality, mid palate is rich with apple peel, lemon zest and chestnut, at the long finish, roasted nuts and ginger aromas are getting intenser. It has good acidity and medium (+) body. Revitalizing! 15% Vol.
EMILIO LUSTAU Single Cask Amontillado
Amber colored with orange rim. Harmoniously comlex and deep. Sweet on the nose; perfume-like aromas of green olive, moss, iodine, dried fig, chestnut candy. Round on the palate with quince marmalade, caramel, cajun, touch of saltiness and the long dry finish with persimmon and ginger flavours. Full (-) bodied with lots of acidity. 18,5% Vol.
BARBADILLO Oloroso Seco – Aged 30 years
Mahogany colored with gold rim. Intense aromas of roasted chestnut, raisin, peach and apricot marmalade, brown sugar, smoke, mineral edges, touch of ginger. On the palate good acidity, full- bodied,round texture and off-dry, touch of saltiness and ginger,ending with lemon cheese-cake flavours. Very Long. 22% Vol.
FOOD PAIRING FOR MANZANILLA
In order to complete appreciation of wine, my next step is preparing food for Manzanilla. Of course I’m not a pairing expert but also I like to play pairing game 🙂 , then home-made sushi! Why?
– Medium (+) body of wine could be match the weights of salmon and overcooked rice,
– Flavours of sushi roll and Manzanilla are almost equally intense ( also they have common flavours of moss, sea and ginger ).
– Powerful taste of pickled ginger, wasabi and soy sauce will be refreshed by acidity of Manzanilla.
Otherwise, we can easily back to the basics; there is some almond and green olives at home 🙂
It is quite fun to prepare simple sushi roll at home. Actually over cooked rice and wrapping them tightly are the keys. I’ll use avocado, cucumber and salmon ( Instead of fresh salmon, I use lightly smoked salmon )
Looks like a good match 🙂
And Old Ladies have obviously good taste!
Sharing with friends is the next step!!!
*Sherry is a fortified and non-vintage wine that aged in Solera – a very complex ageing technique that the wines belong to successive vintages ( also vineyards ) are blended on vertical and horizontal base with/without flor layer for years -.
A boutique wine producer located on the north-west coast of Marmara sea, Barbare Wines took attention of wine lovers by producing first ( and still only ) Southern Rhône style red blends in Turkey.
Firstly, 2009 Barbare Syrah & Grenache & Mourvèdre took place in the market and was appreciated well for its complexity, finesse and balance. Followed by a Châteauneuf-du-Pape blend, 2009 Barbare Elegance is my favorite in their premium selection.
So, we thought it was nice timing to visit the vineyard before harvest!
We met in Taksim square with Tulin Bozuyuk, General Menager of Barbare wines and other wine lovers. It takes nearly 2 and half hour to The Vineyard from Istanbul that we kept on good company together about food, wine as well as Turkish policy and social life at their comfortable shuttle.
The location is quite intriguing that between two big water; Black sea and Marmara sea near to Tekirdag with a delighted view ;906.jpg” class=”alignnone size-full” />
– After alcoholic and malolactic fermentation of the grapes, resulted wines of varietals are aged in mainly French oak except from Grenache wines.
– They use only high quality medium or light toasted Allier and Nevers as French Oak barrel,
– Their wine-making philosophy is minimum intervention in Vinery,
– No carbonic maseration process for any grape varietal,
– They produce their premium level wines to be benefited with bottle-age.
And tasting at the Vinery Cellar;
It was quite surprising and informative tasting experience to understand how barrel ageing process can effect the aroma and texture of the wines.
Than at the vineyard we noticed perfect application of VSP Cordon-trained, Spur-pruned healthy vines and tasted their berries. And also noticed different skin thickness of red grape varieties especially between Grenache ( was obviously thinner ) with Syrah, Cabernet Souvignon, Merlot and Mourvèdre.
– Tulin Bozuyuk states that they have 23 ha total vineyard area and are happy with that size. Instead of extending the vineyard area their aim to apply biodynamic and sustainable viticulture efficiently.
Vineyard area divided to 17 parcels according to sun exposure, drainage, soil type etc.
– Effective Yield Controlling, restricted to 350kg/decare ( ~ < 35hl/ha ),
– No irrigation with exception of Merlot parcels have drip-irrigation system only for excessive drought conditions,
– Sea breezes protect the vineyards to humidity in growing season and related vine diseases, also has warming effect against to frost,
– Attentive vineyard and vinification activities are checked by Xavier Vignon during his monthly visits.
After the vineyard tour, time to barbecue! with local speciality Tekirdag Kofte;
We began the day with simple breakfast again and we would like to have our lunch at Cal Pep;
Unfortunately, It wasn’t open on August:( , as many good and famous eateries do one month shut-down on July and August in Barcelona. So we tried another good option in the same small square next to the Cal Pep; lonja de tapas. Open air eatery is located in Pla del Palau, in relatively tranquil square of El Born.
It has intense fruit aromas of pineapple, peach with lifting acidity and mineral edges. Some residual sugar balancing with acidity. Ending was gently peppery.
And the Food;
After visiting Casa Batlló on Passeig de Gràcia and Miro Museum in Montjuïc, we went to Lavinia in order to complete our wine shopping. And than to the Hotel up to Dinner at Restaurante El Velódromo at the north end of the Eixample area.
Quite interesting tapas Bar
-that gives service for 21 hours a day,
-The Chef is Carles Abellán graduated from El Bulli,
-Building is in Art-Deco style, quite spacey and mainly decorated with pistachio color,
-No reservation policy excepting Business Lunches,
-Far from Touristic spots, so “La Gente” is mainly local, mixing with curious foreign food lovers,
-Wine list is not extensive but satisfactory with good selection of bottles and well-priced,
So that we could order a wonderful Red Rioja without thinking much;
And the food we tasted;
were delicious and the service was perfectly attentive.
Than we went to famous cocktail bar near to the Restaurant, Dry Martini;
While the counter was indicating 1.022.707 martini prepared by the Bar, it was 2:30am time to leave, early for Barcelona, late for us??? No lo se :)))